Saturday, August 18, 2012

Cape Town - Night 3

We went back down to the Waterfront for dinner at Meloncino - an Italian place. The Waterfront is so energetic and has so many good restaurants that we thought we had to go back there one more time before we head east. The Springbok (South African national rugby team) beat Argentina today, so there were quite a lot of celebrators wearing their best Springbok gear. According to our cab driver (who was an interesting guy), it's also a new moon tonight that marks the conclusion of Ramadan, which also led to a spike in the night life.

Dinner was good and then we wandered around a bit and found some gelato before taking a cab back to African Villa. Tomorrow we head to Knysna.

Cape Town - Day 3

We started off with another breakfast at our hotel and then drove over to Table Mountain to take the gondola up to the top. It was very crowded and we had to park about 3/4 of a mile from the gate alongside the road. Luckily we bought our tickets online ahead of time so we jumped right in line and were up on the mountaintop within 15 minutes or so. The ride was pretty impressive - extremely high and almost fully vertical for the last 1/3 or so. The platform inside the gondola slowly rotated so that everyone got different views.


The top of the mountain was as impressive as the ascent. According to Graham (our Winelands tour guide), there are more species of plants that live on top of Table Mountain than that live in the entire United Kingdom. The views of surrounding peaks and the city down below were amazing. We were lucky to have such perfect weather.







We then took the winding, mountain roads south into the Cape.


We stopped in Simon's Town, which was a quaint sea town with noticeable European influence that continues to this day in the form of vacationers. We had lunch at Bertha's overlooking the bay, where I enjoyed a nice Windhoek lager on draft.




We then drove down the coast a bit to the penguin colony, which is a national park to preserve the penguin population. It was quite crowded with tourists, but the penguins didn't seem to mind. We did not run over any penguins.


We then drove further south along the eastern side of the peninsula and into the Cape of Good Hope National Park, passing some roadside baboons on the way.


We drove all the way to the end of the park and then hiked up to the old lighthouse atop Cape Point. It was a pretty steep climb, but the views were worth it.





We then headed back up the coast through Fish Hoek and Kalk Bay and eventually back into Cape Town. Now we're regrouping and planning to head out for dinner for our last night in the Cape.

Friday, August 17, 2012

Cape Town - Night 2

We went to a special wine pairing dinner at Aubergine tonight - not too far from our hotel, although we incorrectly instructed our taxi to their sister location, Auslese, at first.

The dinner was amazing. Our concierge, Jimmy, e-mailed us about the dinner a few weeks before our trip and told us that since we were going to the Winelands that day, he thought we'd enjoy the wine-paired dinner. He could not have been more right. Everything was amazing - we were so lucky to be a part of it we almost felt out of place. There were two local wine farms that showcased their wines - Mulderbosch (whites) and Rainbow's End (reds). Each wine was paired with a course prepared by Chef Harold Bresselschmidt, who is revered to be among the best chefs in South Africa.


The setting of the restaurant was relaxing and comfortable. Aubergine is actually housed in the former home of the first chief justice of the Cape.


There were drawings for prizes throughout the dinner and we won a day with the winemaker for four people at Rainbow's End - which would be amazing, but, unfortunately, we are unable to use it. Luckily, our new best friends Claude Laurent and Anna Engstrom-Laurent (both doctors from Stockholm who have a vacation home in Cape Town) were able to take it and plan to use in February. They agreed to give a full report back. Here's a picture of Claude and Anna with Harold (the chef).

It was a great end to a great day. Dinner could not have been more delicious. As Graham says, "This is Africa; no place for sissies."

Tomorrow is Cape Point and Table Mountain.

Cape Town - Day 2

We started the day with a great breakfast in-house at the hotel, which included made to order eggs, toast, mushrooms and bacon. The coffee here is delicious.

At about 8:45, we met up with our tour guide for the day for the Winelands - a first generation South African of British decent named Graham Bell. (He says his dad had a sense of humor).

We drove about an hour out of Cape Town, learning the interesting cultural history of South Africa and the Cape area from Graham. It really is a fascinating area with a diverse blend of cultures.

Our first stop in the Winelands was Simonsig, where we enjoyed a wine tasting next to the fireplace. We tried South Africa's own varietal, Pinotage, but were not huge fans.

Then we headed up the mountain to Tokara for another tasting. Tokara was a beautiful facility with an amazing view out of their tasting room. Their staff was knowledgeable and funny and we had an excellent time.

We then headed to Thelema Mountain, where we chatted with Graham on the deck overlooking the mountains.


It was then time for lunch. We went up the road to Deli Cat Essen, a lunch spot affiliated with Tokara. We learned that Tokara and its outbuildings are the love project of a wealthy South African banker. It was clear that a lot of money had been spent in constructing the facilities. Jen enjoyed a burger and Graham and I each had a steak and brie sandwich while a bunch of kids ran around in the outdoor background - apparently this is a common hang out of the South African locals.


It was then around the mountains and through a valley to Boekenhoutskloof, where we enjoyed another excellent tasting. The surroundings continued to impress. The weather could not have been more perfect as we soaked up the sun while enjoying some terrific wines.


Our final stop was Grand Provence, which had a very cool tasting room. Their wines were also excellent and we purchased three bottles to bring our tally for the day to eight. We'll see how many make it home.



Having lunch at Grand Provence was F.W. de Klerk, the former president of South Africa who was instrumental in working with Nelson Mandela to end apartheid. I was shocked at how nonchalant everyone was about his presence. I remember reading about him in my second grade Weekly Reader, and here he was, right in front of me!


Our day with Graham concluded with a drive back to the hotel - now we're regrouping and heading to dinner with - of course - more wine.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Cape Town - Night 1

We regrouped and headed down to the Waterfront district to grab some dinner during our first night in Cape Town. The Waterfront was amazing - with over a dozen awesome looking restaurants and lots of shops and stores.

The Waterfront in Cape Town:





We settled on a place called Karibu, where we enjoyed a delicious blended red wine (primarily Cabernet Savignon) and the "Safari Platter."


We prefaced the Safari Platter with a crocodile appetizer and a side of billtong (like beef jerky - a South African staple).


The Safari Platter included (from the bottom left going clockwise): Impala, Springbok, Kudu, Sausage (beef), Rump steak (beef), lamb chop and ostrich.

During dinner a singing group came in and did several songs right by our table - Glen Lutz, eat your heart out.



The Waterfront district was very cool - full of bars and restaurants. After dinner we went to some of the shops and may or may not have purchased an amazing item for a certain nephew. Now it's off to bed to try to cut off any jet lag at the onset and to recharge for our tour of the winelands tomorrow.

Made It.

We are checked into our amazing boutique hotel - An African Villa - in Cape Town and getting ready to head to the Waterfront area for dinner. I doubt it will be a late night given that we just completed 27 hours of travel to get here, including a 15 hour flight from JFK to Johannesburg. Jen has rebounded nicely from quite a passed-out bag lady imitation in the Johannesburg airport while we awaited our connection and appears to be relatively high energy.

Despite the long duration, our travel went off without a hitch - no turbulence, no delays, no lost bags, no bad weather. We got our rental car quickly and easily from Avis and made it straight to our hotel without getting lost (despite not having a car GPS - although we have a phone GPS). (My phone and e-mail works here).

A great start to the trip - we'll have more detailed posts and photos soon - just wanted to let everyone know we're alive.

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

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